Yarn used: I Love This Yarn in shades pink and limelight. worsted weight
Hook size: I
Stitches and techniques you’ll need to be familiar with:
- sc : single crochet
- hdc : half double crochet
- sl st : slip stitch, including slip stitching on the surface of a project rather than into the top of a stitch
- hdc2tog : half double crochet 2 stitches together
- ch : chain
- Front loop only
- Magic Circle
Note: The first stitch of every new round will go into the same stitch you slip stitched into when you joined the previous round. For example, when you finish a round, you’ll ignore the chain(s) at the beginning of the round, and slip stitch into the first stitch of the round to join. Then when you begin your next round, you will chain the appropriate number of chains, and then do your first stitch of the new row into the same stitch. I find that ignoring chains and joining into the first stitch of the row makes a neater and less noticeable seam.
- Round 1: Using green, 4 sc into magic circle, slip stitch into first sc to join. --- 4 st
- Rounds 2-8: Ch 1, sc into each stitch around, join --- 4 st
- Round 9 : Ch 1, 2 hdc into each sc around, join --- 8 st
- Round 10: Ch 1, (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st) 4 times, join --- 12 st
- Round 11: Ch 1, working into FRONT LOOP ONLY (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc into each of the next 2 st) 4 times, join --- 16 st Note: It might help to put stitch marker(s) in the back loops, because you will be working into these later
- Round 12: Ch 1, resume working into both loops (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc into each of the next 3 stitches) 4 times, join, do not disconnect the yarn --- 20 st
Now you will begin to shape the leaves. We will shape one leaf at a time and then slip stitch along the left edge of the completed leaf, back down to row 12, so we can begin the next leaf without disconnecting or reconnecting the yarn.
- Leaf 1: Ch 1, hdc into first 5 st of row 12, ** Ch 1 and turn, hdc into each of the 5 stitches of the petal, Ch 1 and turn , hdc2tog and hdc in next 3 st, Ch 1 and turn, hdc2tog and hdc into next 2 st, Ch 1 and turn, hdc2tog and hdc into next st. Don’t turn, just rotate project slightly clockwise and slip stitch along the left edge of the petal until you get down to row 12 again.
- Leaves 2-4: hdc into the next 5 stitches of row 12, beginning with the 6th hdc of row 12 (You will begin with stitch 11 for 3rd leaf, stitch 16 for 4th leaf). For each leaf, this will be the first stitch of that row you haven’t stitched into yet. Repeat from ** until all four leaves are done.
Tie off And weave in ends
Now you will begin to shape the flower. Switch to whichever color you would like your rose to be
- Round 13: Turn your stem and petals over and look at the wrong side. Identify the 12 back loops from row 11 that you didn’t work into. Attach your yarn in any of those back loop stitches you identified, using a slip stitch. Ch 1 (2 hdc in first loop, hdc in next 2 loops) 4 times and join to first hdc with sl st--- 16 st
- Round 14: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next st) 8 times --- 24 st
- Round 15: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of the next 2 st) 8 times – 32 s
- Round 16: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of the next 3 st) 8 times -- 40 st
- Rounds 17- 26: Ch 1, hdc around, join --- 40 st
- Round 27: Ch 1, 2 hdc into each stitch around. --- 80 st
Do not join at end of round. Locate the slightly diagonal seam created by all your joins in the previous rows. slip stitch up along this ridge to create the appearance of overlapping rose petals. If you wish to skip this step, just join at the end of the row as normal, and then tie in all ends.