Newborn Rose Hat

Yarn used: I Love This Yarn in shades pink and limelight. worsted weight 

Hook size: I 

Gauge: 

Stitches and techniques you’ll need to be familiar with:

• sc : single crochet 
• hdc : half double crochet 
• sl st : slip stitch, including slip stitching on the surface of a project rather than into the top of a stitch 
• hdc2tog : half double crochet 2 stitches together 
• ch : chain 
• Front loop only 
• Magic Circle

Note: The first stitch of every new round will go into the same stitch you slip stitched into when you joined the previous round. For example, when you finish a round, you’ll ignore the chain(s) at the beginning of the round, and slip stitch into the first stitch of the round to join. Then when you begin your next round, you will chain the appropriate number of chains, and then do your first stitch of the new row into the same stitch. I find that ignoring chains and joining into the first stitch of the row makes a neater and less noticeable seam. 

• Round 1: Using green, 4 sc into magic circle, slip stitch into first sc to join. --- 4 st 

• Rounds 2-8: Ch 1, sc into each stitch around, join --- 4 st 

• Round 9 : Ch 1, 2 hdc into each sc around, join --- 8 st 

• Round 10: Ch 1, (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st) 4 times, join --- 12 st 

• Round 11: Ch 1, working into FRONT LOOP ONLY (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc into each of the next 2 st) 4 times, join --- 16 st    Note:  It might help to put stitch marker(s) in the back loops, because you will be working into these later

• Round 12: Ch 1, resume working into both loops (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc into each of the next 3 stitches) 4 times, join, do not disconnect the yarn --- 20 st 

Now you will begin to shape the leaves. We will shape one leaf at a time and then slip stitch along the left edge of the completed leaf, back down to row 12, so we can begin the next leaf without disconnecting or reconnecting the yarn. 

• Leaf 1: Ch 1, hdc into first 5 st of row 12, ** Ch 1 and turn, hdc into each of the 5 stitches of the petal, Ch 1 and turn , hdc2tog and hdc in next 3 st, Ch 1 and turn, hdc2tog and hdc into next 2 st, Ch 1 and turn, hdc2tog and hdc into next st. Don’t turn, just rotate project slightly clockwise and slip stitch along the left edge of the petal until you get down to row 12 again. 
• 
  
• Leaves 2-4: hdc into the next 5 stitches of row 12, beginning with the 6th hdc of row 12 (You will begin with stitch 11 for 3rd leaf, stitch 16 for 4th leaf). For each leaf, this will be the first stitch of that row you haven’t stitched into yet. Repeat from ** until all four leaves are done. 

Tie off And weave in ends

Now you will begin to shape the flower. Switch to whichever color you would like your rose to be

• Round 13: Turn your stem and petals over and look at the wrong side. Identify the 12 back loops from row 11 that you didn’t work into. Attach your yarn in any of those back loop stitches you identified, using a slip stitch. Ch 1 (2 hdc in first loop, hdc in next 2 loops) 4 times and join to first hdc with sl st--- 16 st 

• Round 14: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next st) 8 times --- 24 st 

• Round 15: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of the next 2 st) 8 times – 32 s

• Round 16: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of the next 3 st) 8 times -- 40 st 

• Rounds 17- 26: Ch 1, hdc around, join --- 40 st 

• Round 27: Ch 1, 2 hdc into each stitch around. --- 80 st 

Do not join at end of round. Locate the slightly diagonal seam created by all your joins in the previous rows. slip stitch up along this ridge to create the appearance of overlapping rose petals.  If you wish to skip this step, just join at the end of the row as normal, and then tie in all ends.

Simple Shells Slouchy Beanie

THIS PATTERN IS FOR A SLOUCHY BEANIE USING CROCHET SHELLS AND RIBBING.  It fits my 4 and 6 year old sons and it also fits me, so aside from babies and toddlers, it will fit most children and adults.

I USED WORSTED WEIGHT YARN (Caron Cake yarn for the first hat, pictured, and 2 others in various wool-blends) AND A SIZE "i" Clover Amour Hook.

I DON'T CURRENTLY HAVE ANY GAUGE INFORMATION, HOWEVER the hat is worked from the brim up, so you can try it on starting as soon as you've finished the first row!  IF IT'S TOO LARGE, GO DOWN A HOOK SIZE, AND IF IT'S TOO SMALL, GO UP A HOOK SIZE.  The entire pattern up until the final 2 rows will work perfectly as long as you start with any multiple of 4.  So you can also add or remove stitches to get the size you want, but you should be comfortable "winging" the final 2 rows at the top if you do this, because the stitch counts won't match up right once you get to that point. 

THIS PATTERN REQUIRES THE USE OF FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET. THIS IS USED AROUND THE brim, BECAUSE A CHAIN IS NOT VERY ELASTIC and isn't ideal for the brim of a hat. I KNOW SOME PEOPLE AREN'T FAMILIAR WITH THIS TECHNIQUE OR HAVEN'T PERFECTED IT YET, BUT I HIGHLY SUGGEST GIVING IT A SHOT! THERE ARE AWESOME YOUTUBE TUTORIALS OUT THERE!

Row 1:  Foundation single crochet x48.  We will be working in the round, so join to first foundation sc with a slip stitch.  Make sure not to twist the row before joining!

Row 2:  Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around (48 hdc)

Rows 3-8:  Ch 1, fphdc around same stitch, bphdc around the next stitch.  Continue alternating (fphdc, bphdc) around, ending in a bphdc.  Join to first fphdc with a slip stitch. (48 st)

Row 9: ch1, sc in same stitch (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next stitch (forms shell), sk 1 stitch, sc in next stitch) x12, excluding the last sc of the last repeat. slip stitch into the first sc of the round

Row 10-24: Slip stitch up to the 3rd (middle) stitch of the first shell.  Ch1, and sc in same stitch. Skip the next 2 stitches of the shell.  (5dc into next sc *between shells*, sc in 3rd stitch of next shell)x 12, excluding the sc in the last repeat. slip stitch into the first sc of the round.

Row 25:  ch 1, sc2tog working into same stitch *first sc of row* and the 3rd stitch of the next shell. (sc2tog working into next sc *between shells* and the third stitch of the following shell) x 11.  Sl st into first sc2tog of row.

Row 26: ch1, sc3tog working into the same stitch  and the follwing 2 stitches.  (sc3tog, in the same fashion) x 3.  Sl st into first sc3tog of the row, bind off, weave in ends.

About Me

My first post on this blog was the pattern for which the blog was made.  But I'll be posting a few more patterns here so I might as well make a blog post introducing myself.

I'm Anna.  I'm 28 years old and I've been with my husband 8 years now.  I'm a stay at home mom with two beautiful boys, Owen (4) and Ricky (6).  I love crocheting, reading, World of Warcraft, and lots of movies and TV shows.  Too many to count, although pretty much all the big ones (the walking dead, game of thrones, supernatural) are on my list of favorites.   I'm a big fan of vampires!  Right now my husband and I are watching True Blood and love it despite the first episode which we both hated.  The accents were a big turn off at first (most of the actors don't have a southern accent in real life) but gradually I got used to it and now I'm hooked.  We just finished season 2 and I'm Team Eric all the way.  Incidentally, my husband's name is Eric as well.

A little more about my boys.  Owen loves sharks, dolphins, and whales more than anything on this planet (hence his shark hat, pictured, which he wears every day.)  He is the sweetest little thing with the prettiest eyes I've ever seen, a baby face that makes him look younger than 4, and the tiniest and most innocent little voice.  He is the baby of the family through and through.    Ricky just started kindergarten this year (a year late, because he had an extra year of preschool to work on his speech delay).  He loves nothing more than doing laundry, playing games, and annoying his brother.  Owen may have the sweetness, but Ricky is our entertainer.  He is constantly making us laugh and amazing us with his silly thoughts.  We all love book time before bed and Pete the Cat is our best literary friend.  I even crocheted a Pete the Cat doll for both of the kids.  Owen drags his around everywhere and I couldn't be happier that he loves him so much.

Owen at The National Aquarium in Baltimore

Ricky's First Day of Kindergarten

2 Crocheted Pete the Cat Dolls, and a Pete the Cat Hat.

Simple Shells Mittens

This pattern is for a pair of mittens using crochet shells and also ribbing.  They are worked from the wrist up to the fingers, and the thumb is added on last.

I used worsted weight yarn and a size I hook for my mittens, but I would recommend using a size G or H hook for the cuff, especially if your wrists are on the smaller side.  My cuff stretched out more than I expected after I started wearing my mittens and it didn't feel as snug as I would have liked.  I fixed mine by adding an extra row around the cuff to tighten things up a bit (it is shown in the picture and also written into the pattern, so using a smaller hook size for the cuff is entirely optional).   You may also decide you like the way your mittens fit without tightening them up at all.  This is great, too!

I don't currently have any gauge information, however when you are finished your first couple rows of the cuff, slide it onto your wrist and if it fits comfortably and snugly around your wrist your hook size is fine!  If it's too large, go down a hook size, and if it's too small, go up a hook size.

This pattern requires the use of Foundation Single Crochet. This is used around the cuff, because a chain is not very elastic. I know some people aren't familiar with this technique or haven't perfected it yet, but I highly suggest giving it a shot! There are awesome youtube tutorials out there!  I also use standing single crochet in the pattern.

We will be starting with the Cuff!  You can make the cuff longer or shorter than mine if you

would like, just add more rows if you want!


Row 1:  Foundation single crochet x24.  We will be working in the round, so join to first

foundation sc with a slip stitch.  Make sure not to twist the row before joining!

Row 2:  Ch 1, hdc in same stitch and in each stitch around (24 hdc)

Rows 3-7:  Ch 1, fphdc around same stitch, bphdc around the next stitch.  Continue alternating

(fphdc, bphdc) around, ending in a bphdc.  Join to first fphdc with a slip stitch. (24 st)

The cuff is complete, so if you used a smaller hook size for the cuff you can switch to the

bigger size now.

Row 8: ch1, sc in same stitch (sk 1 st, 5 dc in next stitch (forms shell), sk 1 stitch, sc in

next stitch) x6, excluding the last sc of the last repeat. slip stitch into the first sc of

the round

Row 9-12: Slip stitch up to the 3rd (middle) stitch of the first shell.  Ch1, and sc in same

stitch. Skip the next 2 stitches of the shell.  (5dc into next sc *between shells*, sc in 3rd

stitch of next shell)x 6, excluding the sc in the last repeat. slip stitch into the first sc

of the round.

Row 13:  Skip the next 2 shells and the sc between them.   slip stitch into the next sc.

(this forms the thumb hole).  Sl st up into the 3rd (middle stitch) of the shell.   Ch 1, sc

in same stitch.  Skip next 2 stitches of the shell.  (5dc into next sc *between shells*, sc in

3rd stitch of next shell) x 3.  5 dc in the middle of the newly created thumb-hole, sl st into

first sc of the round.  You will now have 4 shells around, instead of 6.

Rows 14-20:  (Basically continue the shell pattern as before.  I'll include the detailed

instructions in case anyone hasn't memorized his part yet.  You can also use more rows if you

have longer fingers!)

Slip stitch up to the 3rd (middle) stitch of the first shell.  Ch1, and sc in same stitch.

Skip the next 2 stitches of the shell.  (5dc into next sc *between shells*, sc in 3rd stitch

of next shell)x 4.  Exclude the sc from the last repeat and slip stitch into the first sc of

the round.


Row 21:  ch 1, sc2tog working into same stitch *first sc of row* and the 3rd stitch of the

next shell. (sc2tog, working into next sc and the third stitch of the following shell) x 3.

Sl st into first sc2tog of row.  Bind off.  This should sufficiently close the end of the

mitten, but if you feel it's too open, feel free to use the yarn tail to stitch things

together a little more snugly.



Thumb:

Row 1 of thumb:  Join with a standing sc into any stitch around the thumb hole (there should

be 11.  5 stitches in each shell, and the sc between them).  Sc into each stitch around and

join to the first sc with a sl st.   (11 sc)

Row 2: ch 1, sc into the same stitch and the next 8 st.  sc2tog in the last 2 sc of the row.

Join to first sc with a sl st. (10 st)

Row 3-7: sc into each stitch around

Row 8:  sc2tog around. Bind off, and use the yarn tail to sew the remaining gap closed.  Then

tie in your ends.


Optional row to make the cuff tighter:  Join with a standing crochet in any stitch around the

cuff. sc in next stitch, sc2tog using the next 2 stitches.  Repeat this pattern (sc in 2

stitches, sc2tog) around so your total number of stitches in the row ends up being 18. Then

add one more row of sc around.

You're done!  Please share your pictures with me!