Amigurumi Pig - Perry Paulo Philbert

Worsted weight yarn - F hook

1. 8 sc in magic circle 
2. Sc around
3. Sc around 
4. 2 sc in each st around
5. (2 sc, sc) around
6. (2 sc, sc in next 2 st)x 5.  Sc around
7. (2 sc in st, sc in 2 st)x5. sc around
8. Sc around
9. Sc around 
10. (Sc2tog, 2 sc)x6.  Sc around
11. Sc around
12. Sc 5, ch3 sk 3, 2 sc, ch3 sk 3, sc 4, (sc inc, sc) the rest of the row
13. Sc around
14. Sc2tog, 2sc, Sc2tog, 2sc, Sc2tog, 2sc, Sc2tog, 2sc, Sc2tog, 4sc, sc inc, 6 sc, sc inc, 4sc
15. (2 sc, Sc2tog)x3, sc around
16. 2sc, Sc2tog, 3sc, sc2tog, 2sc, sc inc, sc around until last st, sc inc
17. Sc around
18. Sc around
19. Sc around
20. Sc around
21. Sc around
22. Sc around
23. Sc around
24. (Sc dec, 5sc) around
25. (Sc dec, 4sc) around
26. Sc around 
27. (Sc Dec, 2 sc) around 
28. (Sc3tog) around, cut yarn and tie together what's left of the hole

Ears

8 sc around ear hole 

(Sc inc, sc) around 

(Sc dec, sc) around

(Dec around)

Sc around

Legs

6 sc into magic ring

(Sc Inc, 2 sc)x2

Sc around for 5 rows

Tail 

Chain 7, 3 sc in each ch

Newborn Elf Hat

This pattern is not written out in detail because these are just my notes from when I designed it.  I haven’t gotten around to writing it properly for public use yet.

Worsted weight yarn - I hook

Start off with 6 st

Increase by 2 st. in row 9, 15, 21, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, and every row from now on until you reach 40 stitches per row

Dc around for 3 rows

Fpdc, bpdc around for 3 rows

Sun Amigurumi

Worsted weight yarn - F hook

In typical Amigurumi fashion we will be working in continuous rounds.  We won’t join at the end of each row, so use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round.  

Make 2:

1. Sc 6 in magic circle. 
2. Inc around    (Inc means 2 sc in one st)
3. (Inc, sc in 1 st) around
4. (Inc, sc in 2 st) around
5. (Inc, sc in 3 st) around
6. (Inc, sc in 4 st) around
7. (Inc, sc in 5 st) around
8. (Inc, sc in 6 st) around
9. (Inc, sc in 7 st) around
10. (Inc, sc in 8 st) around
11. (Inc, sc in 9 st) around
12. Sc around

Add safety eyes and embroider a mouth on the first panel.  On 2nd body panel, don't tie off.  Sc around one more time, this time joining the panels (by stitching through both panels at the same time).  Stuff as you join.  

Rays: 

Attach orange with a sl st in any stitch.  
* Ch 5, sc in 2nd stitch from hook.  hdc, dc, tr in the remaining 3 chains.  
Sk 1 st, sc into next st.  Sl st into the next st.  
Ch 6, sc in 2nd stitch from hook.  Hdc, dc, tr, dtr in the remaining 4 chains.  
Sk 1 st, sc into next st.  Sl st into the next st.  Repeat from * around, join with first sl st or invisible join.  Tie in ends

Chunky Yarn Cow

J hook and homespun yarn

Snout

Ch 4

1. Sc in 2 chains, 3 sc in last chain, turn and sc in 2 ch, 2 sc in last Ch.  (9 total)
2. Sc around
3. Sc in 3, 2 sc in 2, sc in 3, 4 sc in 1 (14)
4. Sc in 5, 2 sc, sc in 6, 2 sc, sc in 1  (16)
5. Sew nostrils on, then attach to head and stuff as you go

Horns

3 rounds of 4 sc, 1 round of slip st

Sew to head

Ears

1. 4 sc into magic circle
2. (2sc, sc into 1 st) around
3. (2 sc, sc into 2 st) around 
4. Sc around
5. Sc around
6. Sc around 
7. Pinch together at bottom and sew to head

Head

1. Magic ring, sc 6
2. (2 sc) in each st around (12)
3. (2 sc, sc in 1 st) around (18)
4. (2 sc, sc in 2 st) around (24)
5. (2 sc, sc in 3 st) around (30)
6. Sc around (30)
7. Sc around (30)
8. Sc around (30)
9. Sc around (30)
10. Sc around (30)
11. Sc around (30)
12. Sc around (30)
13. (dec, sc in 3 st) around (24)
14. (dec, sc in 2 st) around (18)

Body

1. Magic ring, 6sc
2. (2 sc) in each st around (12)
3. (2sc, sc in 1 st) around (18)
4. (2sc, sc in 2 st) around (24)
5. (2sc, sc in 3 st) around (30)
6. (2sc, sc in 4 st) around (36)
7. Sc around 
8. Sc around
9. Sc around
10. (Dec, sc in 4 st) around (30)
11. Sc around
12. Sc around
13. (Dec, sc in 3 st) around (24)
14. Sc around
15. Sc around
16. Sc around 
17. (Dec, sc in 2 st) around (18)
18. Sc around 
19. Sc around
20. (Dec, sc in 1 st) around (12)
21. Join to head 

Arms

1. With brown, Magic circle, 6sc 
2. (2sc, sc in 2 st) around (8)
3. Sc around, switch to main color on last st
4. Sc around for 10 rows

Legs

1. With brown, magic circle, 8sc
2. (2sc, sc in 3 st) around (10)
3. Sc around, switch to main color on last st
4. Sc around for 12 rows

Utters

1. Chain 9, turn and sc 8
2. Sc 2, dtr, sc 2, dtr, sc 2
3. Sc along 
4. Repeat row 2
5. Sc along 
6. Repeat row 2
7. Sc along
8. Do a row around the entire thing, sc on top and bottom, slip st on sides 

Totally Loopy Winter Hat

This hat will probably be the most customizable hat you've ever made!  You can use any yarn or hook you want, and you can make this hat for anyone of any age!  Let's get started!

Brim

1. Use foundation single crochet and make the first row as long as you'd like it to be.  Make sure to use an EVEN number of stitches.  Join to the first stitch with a slip stitch.          Note: If the hat is for you, just wrap it around your head from time to time to see if it fits.  If the hat isn't for you, you can measure it using a sizing chart online.
2. Ch 1.  Hdc in same stitch, and in every stitch the whole way around.  Slip stitch to first stitch
3. Ch 1.  Fpdc in the same stitch.  (Bpdc, fpdc) around.  The last stitch of the row should be a bpdc.  Slip stitch to the first stitch
4. Repeat row 3 until the brim is as wide as you'd like it to be.  I usually make mine about 2 inches. If you're using a super bulky yarn, you may even want to skip the (fpdc, bpdc) rows and move onto the body of the hat!

Body of hat - the fun part!

1. ch1.  Sc in same stitch and in following stitch.  (Ch 8, sc in 2 stitches) the whole way around.  The end of round will be a ch 8.  Slip stitch to first sc of row
2. ch 2.  Dc in same stitch, and each stitch around, ignoring the ch8 loops.  The loops will need to hang to the front of your work, but you can always push them to the front after you're done the row.  There should be 2 dc in between each ch8 loop.  When you reach the end of the row, slip stitch to first dc of row.
3. Repeat row 1, only this time you will pull the new ch-8 loops you make through the previous set of loops, from back to front.  You can do this either as you go along or when you're finished your row.  

4. Repeat row 2.  Don't worry if your loops keep separating, you can put them back together very easily! 

Continue repeating rows 1 and 2

Until your hat is the height you want it to be.  Make sure you end the hat on a row where you are making ch-8 loops.  Note: If the recipient of the hat isn’t around to try it on, use a hat sizing chart (plenty on google!) to determine how tall the hat should be based on age of recipient.  

Finishing off the hat:  cut 2 pieces of yarn that are about 12 inches long.  Using both pieces at once (this makes it more sturdy!), string the yarn through all the loops of the final row, making sure not to miss any!  Pull tight and tie a knot to make sure it stays cinched together tightly!  (I like to turn my hat inside out before I pull tight and tie the knot, so it won't be visible from the outside). Now weave in all the ends and enjoy your hat!

Maverick’s Mittens

Worsted weight yarn- G hook

Magic circle

1. Ch 1. 12 dc in magic ring. JWSS (join with slip stitch) to first dc of the row, ignoring the ch-1.  You will always ignore the ch-1 in this pattern.  ((12))
2. Ch 1, (Dc, 2dc in next stitch) around.  JWSS ((18))
3. Ch 1, (2dc in 1 istitch, dc in 8 stitches) x 2.  JWSS. ((20))
4. Ch 1, (2dc in 1 stitch, dc in 9 stitches)x 2.  JWSS ((22))
5. Ch 1, Dc in each stitch around. JWSS ((22))
6. repeat row 5 ((22))
7. Ch 1.  Dc in 20 stitches, leaving final 2 stitches of the row unworked.  Ch 4 and JWSS in first dc of row  ((20 Dc, 4 ch))
8. Ch 1, Dc in each st and ch around.  JWSS ((24))
9. Ch 1, Dc in each stitch around.  JWSS ((24))
10. Repeat row 9
11. Repeat row 9
12. Repeat row 9
13. Ch 1.  (Fpdc, bpdc) around.  JWSS ((24))
14. Repeat row 13
15. Repeat row 13
16. Repeat row 13

Bind off

Thumb

1. With right side facing, 10 dc around the thumb hole ((10))
2. Ch 1.  Dc around, JWSS ((10))
3. Ch 1. (Dc2tog) around, JWSS ((5))

Bind off.  Use yarn tail to stitch shut the small opening at the top of the thumb, and then weave in all ends

Newborn Rose Hat

Yarn used: I Love This Yarn in shades pink and limelight. worsted weight 

Hook size: I 

Gauge: 

Stitches and techniques you’ll need to be familiar with:

• sc : single crochet 
• hdc : half double crochet 
• sl st : slip stitch, including slip stitching on the surface of a project rather than into the top of a stitch 
• hdc2tog : half double crochet 2 stitches together 
• ch : chain 
• Front loop only 
• Magic Circle

Note: The first stitch of every new round will go into the same stitch you slip stitched into when you joined the previous round. For example, when you finish a round, you’ll ignore the chain(s) at the beginning of the round, and slip stitch into the first stitch of the round to join. Then when you begin your next round, you will chain the appropriate number of chains, and then do your first stitch of the new row into the same stitch. I find that ignoring chains and joining into the first stitch of the row makes a neater and less noticeable seam. 

• Round 1: Using green, 4 sc into magic circle, slip stitch into first sc to join. --- 4 st 

• Rounds 2-8: Ch 1, sc into each stitch around, join --- 4 st 

• Round 9 : Ch 1, 2 hdc into each sc around, join --- 8 st 

• Round 10: Ch 1, (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc in next st) 4 times, join --- 12 st 

• Round 11: Ch 1, working into FRONT LOOP ONLY (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc into each of the next 2 st) 4 times, join --- 16 st    Note:  It might help to put stitch marker(s) in the back loops, because you will be working into these later

• Round 12: Ch 1, resume working into both loops (2 hdc in first st, 1 hdc into each of the next 3 stitches) 4 times, join, do not disconnect the yarn --- 20 st 

Now you will begin to shape the leaves. We will shape one leaf at a time and then slip stitch along the left edge of the completed leaf, back down to row 12, so we can begin the next leaf without disconnecting or reconnecting the yarn. 

• Leaf 1: Ch 1, hdc into first 5 st of row 12, ** Ch 1 and turn, hdc into each of the 5 stitches of the petal, Ch 1 and turn , hdc2tog and hdc in next 3 st, Ch 1 and turn, hdc2tog and hdc into next 2 st, Ch 1 and turn, hdc2tog and hdc into next st. Don’t turn, just rotate project slightly clockwise and slip stitch along the left edge of the petal until you get down to row 12 again. 
• 
  
• Leaves 2-4: hdc into the next 5 stitches of row 12, beginning with the 6th hdc of row 12 (You will begin with stitch 11 for 3rd leaf, stitch 16 for 4th leaf). For each leaf, this will be the first stitch of that row you haven’t stitched into yet. Repeat from ** until all four leaves are done. 

Tie off And weave in ends

Now you will begin to shape the flower. Switch to whichever color you would like your rose to be

• Round 13: Turn your stem and petals over and look at the wrong side. Identify the 12 back loops from row 11 that you didn’t work into. Attach your yarn in any of those back loop stitches you identified, using a slip stitch. Ch 1 (2 hdc in first loop, hdc in next 2 loops) 4 times and join to first hdc with sl st--- 16 st 

• Round 14: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into next st) 8 times --- 24 st 

• Round 15: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of the next 2 st) 8 times – 32 s

• Round 16: Ch 1, (2 hdc into next st, 1 hdc into each of the next 3 st) 8 times -- 40 st 

• Rounds 17- 26: Ch 1, hdc around, join --- 40 st 

• Round 27: Ch 1, 2 hdc into each stitch around. --- 80 st 

Do not join at end of round. Locate the slightly diagonal seam created by all your joins in the previous rows. slip stitch up along this ridge to create the appearance of overlapping rose petals.  If you wish to skip this step, just join at the end of the row as normal, and then tie in all ends.